Bandung in Indonesia might not be the most famous of tourist spots in the region, but when you do go there, you’ll find a cosy city full of homely eateries and cafes strewn throughout. When you’ve got weather as cooling as this (the city lies on a river basin surrounded by volcanic mountains), there’s no reason not to go binging – from cheap hawker eats to modern restaurants and cafes. And here’s a pick of our favourites.
Mie Rica Kejaksaan
Mie kocok – a unique dish of springy noodles with beef tendon and meat ball soup – might be a local favourite, but at Mie Rica Kejaksaan, they do things a little differently; with pork, no less. There are five categories of noodles here, the most popular ones being the Spicy Casao (Rp. 32,000, char siew pork), Spicy Deep Fried Shrimp (Rp. 32,000) and the Spicy Pork Rica (Rp. 30,000, with fiery but beautifully spiced minced pork). Plus, you can also choose between for either sweet or savoury flavours for your toppings.
Mie Rica Kejaksaan is located at Jln Kejaksaan 7, Braga, Sumur Bandung, Bandung, p. +62 22 4231268. Open daily 8am – 2pm, 4.30pm – 8pm.
The food at Warung Daweung may not be significantly difference from the other roadside stalls in the Bandung, but its breathtaking view of greenery are surely some of the country’s best, making this spot excellent for catching the sunrise and sunset from its outdoor stone benches. Here, food and drinks on offer include Banana Fritters with Cheese (Rp. 15,000) and Bandrek, a traditional hot, sweet and spicy beverage native to West Java.
Warung Daweung is located at Jln Terusan Padasuka 43, Cimenyan, Bandung, Jawa Barat 40197, Indonesia, p. +62 819-3134-4736. Please call to check opening hours for the day.
Set in a classic Dutch house, the Oxtail Soup (Rp. 75,000) from Dapur Dahapati is the stuff that dreams are made of – thanks to a deliciously thick broth made with a recipe that’s been shared over generations. Filled with generous amounts of tender oxtail meat, parsley, and tomatoes, every bowl is clear and tasty, which you can accompany with gado gado (a traditional salad of steamed vegetables, fried tofu, and eggs) and steamed rice.
Dapur Dahapati is located at Jalan Cipaganti No. 146, Cipaganti, Coblong, Cipaganti, Coblong, Kota Bandung, Jawa Barat 40131, Indonesia, p. +62 22 204 2751. Open daily 9am – 10pm.
Sei Sapi Lamalera
Love beef and all things smoked? Then this is the place for you. Se’i Sapi Lamalera is a clean and cosy spot for large quantities of Smoked Beef at great prices. If you’re not sure what to order, just point towards the large combo meal on the menu, which gives you everything you need to go home satisfy, including a mean Sambal Matah (a potent salsa of sorts laden with fresh onions and chilli). Don’t worry if it’s too spicy – a glass of avocado juice or pandan tea will have you sorted in no time.
Sei Sapi Lamalera is located at Jalan Bagus Rangin No. 24A, Lebakgede, Coblong, Lebakgede, Coblong, Kota Bandung, Jawa Barat 40132, Indonesia, p. +62 821 1550 7836. Open daily 10am – 10pm.
How often do you find nightly live music at a local eatery? Not very often, we’re guessing. And that’s not the best thing. Soto Boyolali offers delicious chicken, mutton, and beef soups (soto) at a steal, along with side dishes like skewered quail eggs, tempeh, battered fish sticks, and perkedel – fried patties of vegtables and smashed potatoes. The food here is outstanding for what you’re paying, so do tip if you enjoyed your meal.
Soto Boyolali is located at Jln Maulana Yusuf 4, Citarum, Bandung Wetan, Kota Bandung, Jawa Barat 40115, p. +62 857 2554 0847. Open daily 6am – 9pm.
Kedai Mamah Eha
Kedai Mamah Eha might not look like a traditional Bandung restaurant, but you can bet that every one of its dishes is as authentic as they come. Get a few bowls of rice and make an order for their famous Squid Ink dish, which is spicy but plenty scrumptious. Other dishes to try include the crispy-chewy Perkedels, Spicy Top Shell Snails, and Bakso Noodle Soup, best eaten with a generous helping of sambal. Known just as well for their desserts, highlights include the Green Tea Brownie with Walnuts and Cheddar Choco Raisin Brownie.
Kedai Mamah Eha is located at Jln Diponegoro 30, Bandung, p. +62 22 421 0777. Open daily 10am – 4am.
Two Hands Full
This trendy coffeeshop is best known for its tasty cuppas. Sourcing beans from local farmers, you’ll find rotating blends like the natural process Aceh Pantan Musara Natural from Pegasing and or Java Frinsa Collective from Sindangkerta. Their brunch offerings aren’t half bad as well, with vaguely familiar dishes like Eggs in Hell (Rp. 50,000), Big Brekky (Rp. 55,000), as well as several grain bowls.
Two Hands Full is located at Jln Sukajadi 198A, Sukajadi Pasteur, Bandung, p. +62 8788 0228 222. Open daily 7am – 8pm.
Maulana Yusuf Satay
Satay, or sate, is a dish you’ll find everywhere in Indonesia, but few do it as well as Maulana Yusuf Satay, which operates out of a cosy space in the city centre. Charcoal-grilled to order and served piping hot with a sweet housemade peanut sauce, we recommend the Beef and Mutton skewers over the chicken, as well as a plate of Lontong (rice cakes), and the signature Tahu Pletok, crispy tofu triangles best eaten with the accompanying kecap manis (sweet soy sauce).
Maulana Yusuf Satay is located at Jln Maulana Yusuf 21, Citarum, Bandung Wetan, Citarum, Bandung Wetan, Bandung, p. +62 22 423 4096.
Tourists heading up to the Tangkuban Perahu stratovolcano in Dago Pakar will likely have passed by this novel art gallery, restaurant, and cafe, which opens early in the day till late at night. The cliffside space offers unparalleled vistas of the countryside and the city, perfect with a beer and good music. Coffee aside, make an order for some of the local favourites, including some surprisingly tasty Soto Betawi and Oxtail Soup. We hear the pizza’s not too shabby too.
Rumah Miring is located at Jln Dago Giri 119, Mekarwangi, Lembang, Bandung, +62 878 2280 8389. Open Sun-Thu 9am – 12am, Fri-Sat 9am – 1am.
Blue Doors may be difficult to find – the entrance is hidden behind a sort of vine-covered patio – but when you do locate it, you might just fall in love. Shut away from the loud traffic, walk through the blue doors to find a rustic little place with exposed bricks and graffiti on the walls. This is where Bandung’s coffee nerds go for speciality brews like its Gayo Brazil House Blend, Mandheling Ginting, and on the international front, beans from Cartel Roasters in Melbourne from as low as Rp. 20,000 a cup.
Blue Doors is located at Jln Gandapura 61, Merdeka, Sumur Bandung, Bandung. Open daily 9am – 10pm.
Armor Kopi Leuit
You will find Armor Kopi Leuit a short distance away from the entrance of the iconic Djuanda Forest Park, and despite its traditional atmosphere and setting, the coffee itself is brewed in very contemporary methods. Which is to say, Hand Brews, Cold Brews, V60, Vietnamese Drips and the like, which you can pair with an array of Indonesian snacks – think fried corn fritters, cireng (a tapioca flour wrap filled with fermented soybeans and mashed beans), and other deep-fried and salty bites that the locals love so much.
Armor Kopi is located at Jln Bukit Pakar Utara, 10 Dago Pakar, Bandung, Indonesia, p. +62 812 1396 0941. Open daily 8am – 9pm.
Two Cents, located in the bustling Riau area, is one of those spots frequented by university students, mostly for its brightly lit space, energy, and experimental approach to coffee. What results is unique concoctions like the Basil Espressotini, which stumped us at first, but is actually not bad at all. For the coffee connoisseurs, you won’t go wrong with one of their two house blends: the Awakening Arabica Robusta blend with citrusy and floral tendencies; and the bold Bewitched Arabica blend with chocolatey orange notes.
Two Cents is located at Jalan Cimanuk, Bandung, Jawa Barat 40115, Indonesia, p. +62 22 426 1336. Open Sun-Fri 7am – 11pm, Sat 7am – 12am.