The Last Frontier: Diving in El Nido, Philippines

PUBLISHED March 20th, 2014 01:00 am | UPDATED April 7th, 2016 03:06 pm

If Boracay is the queen of beaches, then Palawan would be the jewelled crown that sits on top of it. Whilst not literally, or even geographically, Palawan is unquestionably the most beautiful island in the world…yet. Promoted extensively by the tourism board, as the country’s ‘last frontier’, this UNESCO world heritage province is home to mainly three sites – Puerto-Princesa Subterranean River National Park, Tubbataha Reef Marine Park and Ursula Island.

Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park. Image courtesy of Puerto-Princesa Subterranean River National Park.

Palawan in itself is nature’s marvel. Although no longer a secret of divers, birdwatchers, environmentalists and backpackers, the island has put itself on the map as a luxury destination. Whilst most of us would like to splurge, realistically a great holiday is also one where you leave your inhibitions behind and take the island with all its grime and glory. Just six hours away from the capital, Puerto Princessa, is a resource protected area in the province of Palawan called El Nido. Lauded for its magnificent beaches in unspoilt settings, throngs of divers head there every year to explore the island’s amazing marine sanctuaries.

El Nido’s rustic heart

As any traveller would attest to this, always head to the islands during off-peak season. This way, you avoid the crowd, packed boats and the endless rumbling of the engines while you dive. The main town area is where the action happens. School are built on the outskirts, small shops packed like sardines side by side that sells everything from groceries, to fresh fruit juice stalls and beach wares to name a few. Hostels, homestays and small boutique ‘hotels’ are strategically placed around the town area so everything is relatively near. As the island is still under development, the accommodations are mediocre at best. However, for a slice of luxury without the huge bill, check into El Nido Overlooking, that was recently built a year ago at the outskirts of town which is owned by a rugged French man, Arnaud Le Poulichet. Who also happens to be a live guide book of El Nido!

El Nido’s dotted jewels

Matar from the Tabanka Divers Philippines
As the old adage goes, where there are tourists, there is always money to be made. Hence, it has come to a point where divers would also have to ‘shop’ for legitimate diver operators who are not keen on the bottomline. One dive operator that is highly recommended by is Tabanka Divers, because of their qualification, professionalism and safety. The crazy crew is made up of Matar and Olie, who takes you to the least touristy spots to get the real dive experience in El Nido.

Prepared to be wowed by the breath taking views and tranquillity of the various dive sites as you leave the town behind you and enter a whole new crystal clear world. Swim into the middle of a school of barracudas as they form a dark cylindrical shape, swimming in synchronicity at the North Rocks. Or maybe, just out of the blue, you might be swimming next to a black tip! At South Miniloc, catch Squirt’s dad Crush and his nest of dudes lazily swimming around or hanging back by the reefs nudging for some grub. Best time to head there is during the sea turtle hatching season. On Miniloc Island, swing by a narrow gap, a turquoise lagoon that is surrounded by bonsai-like foliage – you will see where beauty and serenity was born. Other popular dive sites not to be missed are, South Entalula, Natnat, Helicopter Island and Twin Rocks.

Most times you’ll find yourself gasping silently underwater as you admire the magnitude of the magnificent marine ecosystem that goes beyond what the eye can see. The colours and delicacy of these reefs can even dwarf ones perception of how nature can never be controlled and how fragile it can also be.

Resurface from under the sea

Nagkalit-kalit Waterfalls
Take a break from diving and catch a tricycle taxi to the nearby beaches, Las Cabanas, Nacpan beach and an unknown beach north of the El Nido airport. For solitude and snorkelling these beaches are perfect for some waist-deep fun. Love the open sea but don’t know how to sail? Come on board El Nido Palawan Sailing Charter and have a relaxing afternoon with a lovely couple, Claude Appaldo and Caramel Mora who call the ocean home. Other fun activities include a 5-10 min trek to Makinit hot spring (too hot to swim!), and Nagkalit-kalit Waterfalls which is on the way to Nacpan beach. Let’s not forget rock climbing, kayaking and exploration!

How to get there

Take Cebu Pacific that flies directly to Puerto Princessa stopping over at Manila. There are only two options available to get to El Nido. It’s either paying inexorable money by a private charted plane or a bus. As the road to the island is paved with rubble, portholes and mud it’s best to pick a trusted and safe operator to get you there in one piece. Daytripper does daily trips to the island and stops midway for lunch.

Where to eat

El Nido Boutique and Art Café is the only place with any decent, fresh and home grown food on the island. They also have wifi, accept credit cards and a live band (which is a major plus after a hard day at sea)! For a romantic French meal by the seaside, try La Salangane.

Hot tips

Do not expect fibre on an island that is still developing. They still work on a satellite to connect to the outside world. Electricity shuts off from 2-6pm and sometimes earlier. But that’s alright since you will be on the boat from 9am – 4pm, so don’t freak out! ATMs and banks are a no sight, so the smart thing to do would be to have cash at hand and keep the access in a safe. There are money changers around but the rates are much higher on the island.

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Written by T_elixir_D

Top Image Credit: Sherpas 428