The thing about steak is that it’s all about good ol’ traditions. Like whisky, you don’t want to bastardise the thing or flair it up with too much innovation – perhaps that is why the two go so well together, like a harmonious chord from the past. In Singapore, steakhouses grounded in heritage might include Morton’s for Chicago-style beef and Ruth’s Chris for a New Orleans-style rendition while the other end of the spectrum is the modern CUT by Wolfgang Puck at Marina Bay Sands. Totally fine, of course – no one can dictate how you eat your meat.
New in the game is Wolfgang’s Steakhouse, opened just last week on the second floor of InterContinental Singapore Robertson Quay. The family-run restaurant marks the 19th restaurant in Wolfgang Zwiener’s 13-year-old steak empire, alongside others in the US, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Beijing, and Seoul. And like its counterparts, Wolfgang’s is classic New York through and through, stylishly decked in solid American walnut floors, wenge wood wainscoting, imported chandeliers, a solid mahogany bar, and mosaic tiles that pay tribute to the Guastavino-tile vaulted ceiling in the flagship Manhattan location.
Renowned for offering premium USDA Prime (the top 2% of all beef produced in the US) Black Angus that’s dry-aged on-site in custom-built ageing rooms, everything is still done the traditional way, from the precision cutting by in-house butchers to the high-heat cooking: 800°C on a grill broiler for sealing in the meat’s juicy succulence and flavour. And the results? Quite phenomenal.
Allow them to bring you your cut of choice, caramelised crust and all. For us, it’s a hulking Porterhouse (from $185) that arrives with a hot buttered plate – a simple and comforting touch of hospitality that’s lacking in many steakhouses here. This, like most of the beef served are dry-aged (except for the filet mignon, which can only be wet-aged) for 28 days until it achieves superb tenderness and beefiness. The porterhouse, as many of you will know, is a best-of-both-worlds sort of thing, combining a sirloin and tenderloin, and is therefore, very large. You can also order the lean nutty sirloin on its own ($99), the extravagantly tender Filet Mignon ($118), and the Ribeye ($118) – fabulously marbled and flavoursome. You might get this with some of the best black peppercorn sauces we’ve tasted, and if you do, don’t be ashamed to dip in.
In true steakhouse etiquette, you should order a side of Creamed Spinach ($15). Turns out, there’s not so much heavy cream in there than there is chicken stock – which is much healthier. It’s decadent, creamy, and a foolproof way to get kids to eat their veggies. If you’re tired of mash and steak fries, try the German Potatoes ($22), fragrant rough-cut potatoes that are sautéed with onions and finished in the oven until crusty and golden brown, for a change.
If your table is fairly large, you might want to get the Seafood Platter ($50), featuring jumbo shrimps, two Maine baby lobsters, and large chunks of fresh crabmeat. Whether before or after you’re done with your steak, it doesn’t matter. What you have to polish off dinner with, though, is Wolfgang’s Cheese Cake ($18) in all its glory. Tall, dense, and rich with a mixture of heavy cream, cream cheese, and eggs – as a New York-style cheesecake should be. Better still, try the immaculate Keylime Pie ($18) too for a tarty, floral ending.
Your meal at Wolfgang’s will feel a bit old-fashioned, but it is part of the experience. The waiters are polite and helpful, the drinks menu revolves around award-winning wines and whiskys, and the food tried, tested, and true to its predecessors. It is not a revolutionary joint, but for the meat lover, one thing looks certain – Wolfgang’s Steakhouse will be hot, hotter than the fires over which they flame their beef.
Wolfgang’s Steakhouse is located at #02-01 InterContinental Singapore Robertson Quay, 1 Nanson Rd, Singapore 238909, p. +65 6887 5885. Open daily 11.30am – 11.30pm.