Restaurant Review: La Ventana Shifts from Classic Spanish Fare To Asian-Influenced Fine Dining
PUBLISHED January 29th, 2018 04:00 am
It used to be that if you wanted quality Spanish fare in Singapore, you’d go to La Ventana, an idyllic Catalan spot on Dempsey Hill. Nowadays, since the departure of celebrated Spanish chef Carles Gaig, the restaurant has taken a Asian-influenced approach that combines regional ingredients with modern European cooking techniques.
The new direction is spearheaded by new Head Chef Toni Valero, who brings with him the skills and experience gathered from working in top restaurants around the world, including Coquo Restaurant and Wine Bar in Kuala Lumpur, which he co-founded. Incidentally, it was there where he discovered the possibilities of reinterpreting Spanish dishes with fresh local produce – something the Malaysian capital has no shortage of.
In the tranquil fine-dining spot, Valero serves up an extraordinary starter of Marinated Bonito ($18++) on a spread of grassy chlorophyll curry (ten herbs crushed and blended to make a paste) sprout salad. The well-seasoned fish is finished with light chilli oil for a kick of heat, while grated orange and lime zest give some zing to whet your appetite.
You should order the photogenic Monkfish with Saffron Foam and Kalamata Olives Emulsion ($42++), not because it looks good, but because the taste is splendid. The sous-vide monkfish is firm and meaty, with a springiness you’ll be hard-pressed finding anywhere else. Eat this with a bit of fragrant saffron foam and emulsion of Kalamata olives for a real treat. There is also a fascinating Scallop dish ($31++) accompanied with savoury miso biscuit crumbs, subtle pandan puree, and deep-fried kale for a delicious texture party.
Perhaps the most decidedly Asian dish, the Steam Bao, Pork shoulder, Romesco (available only as part of La Ventana’s Signature Tasting Menu) is reminiscent of a traditional kong ba bao with Western flavours (Valero uses the nutty Catalan romesco sauce) and yes, it is served in a bamboo steamer basket. It’s a time-consuming dish that features premium pork shoulder brined for 48 hours, grilled in the Josper oven, and then sous vide for another 14 hours. If you typically enjoy your beef cooked low and slow, the Wagyu Cheek with Black Trumpet Cream and Watercress Purée (S$48++) will leave you wanting with its tender beefiness – exquisitely complemented by umami-laden trumpet mushroom cream.
Come dessert, Valero reaffirms his affinity for fusing unusual flavours. There is nothing quite so intriguing as his Curry Leaf Ice Cream with Szechuan Strawberries and Lemongrass Tea Jelly ($18++), which combines a herbaceous scoop of ice cream with peppery strawberries and lemongrass gelatine. Skip this one if you’re looking to satiate a sweet tooth, but for a dessert with an earthy complexity, this dish is brilliant. And the same can be said for where La Ventana is headed. It’s not quite the same restaurant it was – that is, a hotspot for traditional Spanish dishes – but it is really something else.
La Ventana is located at 16A Dempsey Rd, Singapore 247695, p. +65 6479 0100. Open Mon-Sun 12pm – 2.30pm, 6pm – 11pm.
