4 Great Scuba Diving Breaks in South East Asia
PUBLISHED January 29th, 2014 12:15 am | UPDATED March 27th, 2016 01:51 pm
Tranquil havens for beginners, historic wrecks from times past, the pelagic greats and muck diving for hidden macro delights, South East Asia is a scuba diver’s paradise. Below find our top picks for a short break under the ocean blue.
1. Koh Tao, Thailand
Where better to learn to dive than this stunning tropical island, home to more 5* rated dive centres than you can shake a chopstick at. Head to ‘Twins’ to visit Nemo and search under ledges for the blue-spotted ribbontail ray, ‘White Rock’ for the friendly turtle sometimes found quietly munching the coral or for the more ambitious divers Chumphon Pinnacle drops to 40m and can yield bull sharks and whale sharks on a lucky day, and stunning schools of jacks, queenfish and the rest of the year. Yes, in peak periods you may see as many divers as fish but the waters are a blissful 28 – 32 degrees, calm and there is an excellent range of dives suitable for beginners. It also boasts some of the best ‘après-dive’ in the region.
How to go: Bangkok Airways flies direct to Koh Samui, then hop on the ferry (Lomprayah) from there to Koh Tao. If you have the time fly into Bangkok instead and get the train down to Chumphon port, sitting with your legs hanging out of the open train doors as the moon hovers over the velvety jungle shadows is unforgettable!
Top Tips: For diving head to Big Blue in Sairee and ask for Rich, the cheeky chappy instructor who gets consistently excellent reviews. Sairee also has great beach bars (Maya for chill out; Vibe for bucket-induced carnage) and a wide variety of delicious food options (Su Chili for Thai, Barracuda for seafood, Choppers for live music and pub grub). For those seeking a quieter pace of life head to the opposite side of the island to Chalok Ban Kao or Shark Bay for a chilled out vibe.
2. Bali, Indonesia
Enjoy a stunning boat ride past dramatic granite cliffs and explosive waves to the dive sites around Nusa Penida. More challenging than Koh Tao and quite frankly pneumonia-inducing without a long wetsuit, it worth the shivers to see incredible Manta Rays soaring gracefully past you as you descend and the giant mola mola, lurking in deeper waters, that can weigh up to an incredible 2000 kg.
For a totally different experience head North to the coastal town of Tulamben where you can discover the sunken mysteries of the US Liberty, torpedoed by a Japanese submarine in 1942 and lying just 25 metres offshore. Uniquely for such an impressive wreck, it is accessible for divers of all certification levels as it starts at just 5m beneath the surface, descending to the seabed around 30m below.
Top Tips: The new airport is experiencing teething problems so allow extra time for the queues and ask your hotel for an airport pick up to avoid any hassle as you exit. For Nusa Penida, stay on Nusa Lemongan, the neighbouring island for complete chill-out, great access to the dive sites, stunning temples, and fewer tourists. To relax after a hard day diving get a Javanese oil massage, the chiropractic benefits of Thai massage without the ouch-ouch-crunch. You can dive all year round, but the ideal seasons are October – November and May – July.
How To Go: Direct flights to Denpasar (2h30m). From there get a cab to your hotel, or if heading over to Nusa Lembongan to Sanur Beach where you can catch a speedboat over to the island. Beware – the ride is short but can be choppy!
3. Koh Lipe, Thailand
Feel like you have done Thailand to death? Disappointed with how developed your favourite islands have become over the past few years? Look no further than Koh Lipe on the West coast of Thailand. Accessible from Langkawi or from Hat Yai it is still the Thailand of the 1990s. No cars. No bikes. No roads (ok, one paved footpath) and seas the colour of your dreams. Snorkelling off the white sand beaches reveals stunning reefs bursting at the seams with fish of every possible colour and design. Jump in a longtail to visit the further afield sites, between 20 mins – 1 hr away, depending on the site.
Top Tips: While the A-frame huts on the beaches and the dorm rooms are crazy cheap, it is worth the extra couple of dollars to stay at Castaway – stunning 2 storey huts crafted from beautiful faded hardwood, whose doors open directly onto Sunset Beach, only 5 minutes’ walk from the bars and restaurants of Walking Street but much more tranquil. Lipe’s tranquillity maintains a cautious truce with technology – you can find wi-fi, but on our last visit it still didn’t have an ATM, so remember to bring plenty of cash.
How To Go: Fly to Langkawi (1h30m), flight times usually mean staying the night if travelling for a long weekend, then wake up early to grab the catamaran (45m) to be on Lipe in time for a late breakfast. Note, Lipe is only open during high season, which runs from October to April each year.
4. Mabul & Sipadan, Sabah Malaysia
Historically a stopping off point for the tribes of sea gypsies local to the seas around Borneo, Mabul remains home to their ancestors, and there will always be a gang of local kids eager to try out their English or play football on the beach! In addition, however, it is now the main jumping off point for Sipadan, the volcanic island made famous by Jacques Cousteau himself which plunges 2,000 metres to the ocean floor and promises turtles, reef sharks, rays and even hammerheads and whale sharks when conditions are right.
Mabul itself is not to be forgotten however, from the house reefs a few metres off the beach to the various local dive sites, Mabul guarantees amazing muck-diving (a phrase rumoured to have begun in Mabul itself!) as you hover over sand and broken rubble to discover the wonders of blue-ringed octopus, mantis shrimp and camouflaged frogfish galore.
Top Tips: Mabul has a range of exclusive Maldives-style luxury resorts, with bungalows on stilts over the crystal clear waters. If your budget is less extravagant, Scuba Junkie is an excellent dive school with a rigorous eco-approach to diving and helping the local community as well as skilled instructors, both Malay and International. Be warned, Mabul is a chilled out island with diving as its focus and little in the way of nightlife or culinary adventures, but trust us – the amazing views, world-class diving and a cold beer at the resort bar will be more than enough to keep you happy.
How To Go: Fly to Kota Kinabalu, now serviced by several of the budget airlines, and then transfer to Tawau airport (50m), or fly direct to Tawau from KL (2h45m). From Tawau you will need a land transfer (bus or taxi) to the port town of Semporna (1h30m) and from there a short hop on a ferry or speedboat to the island. More effort than our other locations, but well worth it.
Cover image: Green turtle, Koh Tao
